The Case for Tailoring

You know that thing in your closet that you like but then every time you reach for it you remember it’s too long/too big/doesn’t fit right? Then you frown and decide either not to wear it, or you wear it and it annoys you all day.

I know you have at least one of these. I also know that you know the solution.

Say it with me, “Take it to the tailor.”

This is one errand that most people really dread and I get why. You already spent time picking the thing out and money buying it. Spending more time and money to make it work is annoying. 

Trust me, I get it.

But here’s the truth. There are only two ways to get out of this vicious cycle.

Only buy things that require no tailoring. This isn’t impossible but it will make shopping REALLY time consuming and very frustrating, no matter your body type. This will end up being way more work than tailoring.

OR

Accept that tailoring is part of buying clothes and just do it. Think of it as the exercise of fashion.

Here are three ways to make that second option infinitely easier:

  1. Find a great tailor that’s near your house or somewhere else you go regularly and only go to them. Sticking to one tailor makes the process less daunting by adding predictability and comfort to each interaction. Ask around, someone you know will have a recommendation. 

  2. NEVER put an item that needs tailoring in your closet. That’s a guarantee that it won’t get done. Instead, put it in your home’s designated errands area – where you put dry cleaning, returns, outgoing mail, etc. (If you don’t have this, get on it ASAP. Your errands will get done faster, I promise.)

  3. Mentally add $20 to the cost of anything you buy that you’ve tailored before (such as pants if you’re a shorty) and just assume you’re going to do it. If you don’t, that’s a bonus.

Now that you’ve accepted tailoring as part of your life, here are some guidelines on the most common alteration types.

Length

The ease or difficulty of shortening pant hems, skirts, sleeves all depends on what’s on the end of them.

A simple seam, like the one below, will be an easy and quick job. 

Bottom of button down shirt with simple hem
 

A more complex or decorative seam can usually still be done but will be more expensive.

 

Seams with complex patterns and fabrics, especially lace, can require significant reconstruction of the garment such as removing the whole lace panel and reattaching it or removing excess fabric from the opposite end to shorten (can involve a new zipper/elastic/buttons, etc). These alterations aren’t usually worth doing. 

 

Lengthening a garment is sometimes possible, but generally it will be less than an inch and is not usually worth the cost unless it’s a very special piece – family heirloom, vintage, collectible, etc.

If you’re buying something you know you will need to alter, buy it to fit the largest part of your body and alter everything else down. 


Gapping

Clothes that are too long in a specific area create a gap between your skin and the garment due to the excess fabric.

I have a short torso, so tank tops often gap at the armpits. Luckily for me, this is usually easy to fix. A tailor can open the shoulder seam, remove a little bit of the fabric and resew it. 

This can happen on many other parts of the body. As with shortening, the ease or difficulty depends on the seam type.


Replacements

Button replacements are the most overlooked alteration and something I wish everyone would do more. You can buy buttons online or at any craft store and they’re usually inexpensive. Buttons, especially on a top or jacket, are a focal point and changing them will completely change the garment. Most buttons are sewn on simply and can be replaced easily and cheaply.

Zippers on the other hand, are usually not worth replacing. Color matching the fabric on the side of the zipper to the original one can be really difficult as they’re often dyed with the garments. Depending on where you live, this can cost $70-$100. 

The only time I’d really recommend replacing a zipper is for very expensive items. I recently replaced a zipper for the first time in my life because it was on my most expensive handbag. The replacement was $150 but buying a new one would have been 20x more.


Aesthetic Alterations

This is a category most people don’t even think about and I LOVE introducing it to my clients, and now you.

Custom clothes are out of reach for most people but it’s easy to make a ton of customizations to off the rack clothes.

An example:

My client had a silk abstract firework printed top that she wore every year on July 4th. She bought it in the early 2010s and it had a handkerchief hem, like this:

 

While she loved the fit and pattern of the shirt, the hem made it feel dated. So we chopped it off and gave the top a new life. She continues wearing that shirt on July 4th and likely will for a long time…4ever if you will.


Some other ideas to transform garments with tailoring

  • Shorten long skirts and dresses from maxi to midi, midi to mini, etc

  • Shorten pants from long to mid calf, especially wide leg pants

  • Remove or shorten sleeves 

  • Turn a dress from maxi to high low by shortening the front

  • Remove embellishments you don’t like

Aesthetic alterations are one of my favorite things to help clients with as they continue to refine their style. Bonus –refreshing existing garments is cheaper and more sustainable than buying new ones.


I hope this rant has helped you accept and understand how and when to tailor. There are truly infinite possibilities but this is a good start if you’re a newbie. 


If you take one thing away from this, my BIGGEST piece of advice with alterations is this –

Find a tailor, make them your bestie and consult them before you buy something that doesn’t fit to make sure it’s worth it. Tailors are miracle workers but it just may not be worth $300 to fix a $75 skirt.

(If you’re not in the market for a new bestie, you could go to fashion school to learn all of this yourself. Or ask me since I did.)

About the Author

Gab Saper is a New York City personal stylist and founder of Wardrobe Editor. She helps millennial women rebuild wardrobes that reflect who they are now and how they actually live. Her work has been featured in New York Magazine, CNN, Forbes and StyleCaster.

Explore her personal styling services here:

https://www.wardrobeeditor.com/personal-styling-services-menu

Follow her on Instagram:

https://www.instagram.com/wardrobeeditor/

 
Gab Saper
How to Not Be An Idiot With Your Spending This Holiday Season

The holidays are supposed to be a joyous, festive, fun time spent with the people you love. 

And yet, every holiday season, I find myself having at least 10 conversations with someone who tells me how expensive the holidays are and how they have to cut back on things they love/want/need to get through it.

That fucking sucks.

There are definitely things that are expensive and unavoidable – most commonly, travel and hosting costs. I have no advice to help you with those.

BUT! I do have a lot of ideas about costs associated with dressing and gifting.

Before you freak out – I’m not going to tell you not to buy anything. That’s not fun and for most people, it’s not a reasonable solution. 

What I will do is give you some things to think about before you buy anything. (Hence why you’re seeing this in October!) There are a lot of things we feel like we have to buy over the holidays that we don’t actually need.

Work Holiday Party

Every year I hear from clients and friends about their quest for a dress that’s hot but not sexy, just the right amount of sparkly, feels fun but is still appropriate to wear in front of the Head of HR.

Let me burst this bubble for you right now. While this dress definitely does exist, it is not worth your time or money. You’re not going to get a promotion for being best dressed at the holiday party. 

Wear something you already have. I promise you, you have something that works. You can’t go wrong with all black and some sparkly jewelry. You can throw a fun party dress over a ribbed turtleneck and tights. I know you have a couple fun pieces that you can make work.

If you really feel the need to buy something new, here are a few accessory ideas that are versatile enough to be worn again.

 
Collage of gold, silver and pink accessories

Click the image and scroll down to shop!

 

Another thing to consider –

Have you ever heard of a man buying something new for a work holiday party? Just sayin.


Thanksgiving Meal

This holiday means many things to many people, but the thing we can all agree on, is that Thanksgiving is about food.

My philosophy with Thanksgiving outfits is the same as my philosophy with concert outfits – optimize for comfort but still look nice. 

It’s going to be a long day. You’ll have fun catch ups and awkward conversations with people you haven’t seen since last Thanksgiving. At some point you’ll probably be on the floor with a pet or a child. You’ll be eating and drinking all day. Photos will be taken!

So what does that mean for your style? 

It really depends on what you find to be comfortable. For me, it means a tent dress or leggings and a long flowy top. No hard pants. I wore high waisted jeans Thanksgiving 2011 and it’s one of my biggest regrets to this day.

Most of us have at least a few outfits in the “comfortable yet cute” category. If you don’t have this category in your wardrobe, I highly encourage you to figure it out for this Thanksgiving. Once you have it, you’ll wonder how you lived without it.


Night Out at Your Hometown Bar Where You See People You Haven’t Seen in A While

You decide to go to this after all and now you’re FREAKING OUT about what to wear. Sound familiar?

This is a situation where I encourage you to plan in advance. If buying something will new make you feel confident and secure, DO IT. When picking out an outfit for this event, don’t channel your nervous high school self or think about what the cool girls are going to wear. Wear something that makes you feel like the best version of the you that you are today. And hey, that’s an outfit you’ll wear again and again.

And last but certainly not least…

Gifting

I will start by saying that there’s a lot of nuance that goes into gifting. Unfortunately, I cannot solve each of your personal gifting dilemmas here but I’d like to share some general gift categories you may not have thought of. These may not necessarily save money but they will highly increase the chances that the money you spend makes a big impact.


For Your Inner Circle: Everyday Upgrades

Does your mom drink her daily coffee out of a “World’s Best Mom” mug that the dishwasher has melted the ink off of? Buy her a chic new mug that still shows you love her, like this one.

We all have things we use regularly that erode over time. Noticing that someone in your life is using a shitty thing daily shows how much you consider them. Being thoughtful enough to upgrade that item is the gift that keeps on giving. 

For People You Like: Sensory Luxuries 

Items whose sole purpose is to feel, smell or taste good are the perfect gift. For people you know well enough to have a general sense of their tastes, these types of gifts are where it’s at. And if you’re not totally sure, include a gift receipt. No one is ever mad at a gift receipt. 

Here are a few things I’d gift people in this category:

 

Click the image and scroll down to shop!

 

For Anyone You Don’t Know Well: The Easy Answer

If you don’t know someone very well, don’t try to guess their taste or, God forbid, their size. Just buy them a Barefoot Dreams blanket, or for a lower price point, Barefoot Dreams socks. They’re neutral and super luxurious. Everyone will love this.



Happy (and thoughtful!) holiday shopping!

If you want more personalized help, let’s connect ASAP before holiday slots are filled 🤗

About the Author

Gab Saper is a New York City personal stylist and founder of Wardrobe Editor. She helps millennial women rebuild wardrobes that reflect who they are now and how they actually live. Her work has been featured in New York Magazine, CNN, Forbes and StyleCaster.

Explore her personal styling services here:

https://www.wardrobeeditor.com/personal-styling-services-menu

Follow her on Instagram:

https://www.instagram.com/wardrobeeditor/

 
Gab Saper
Why Capsule Wardrobes Are Bulls*!%

Capsule wardrobes have long been touted as the cure to all wardrobe ills. The minimalist fashion savior for the complex puzzle that is getting dressed.

Simplify your life with a capsule wardrobe! 

Buy a capsule wardrobe once and you never need to buy clothes again! 

But what is a capsule wardrobe really? 

First, a little history lesson 

In 1985, Donna Karan launched a collection called “Seven Easy Pieces.” This collection consisted of a bodysuit, skirt, tailored jacket, dress, something leather, a white shirt, and a cashmere sweater. The idea was that these pieces gave you endless outfit options for work and for going out after work. The original “desk to drinks” concept. 

Capsule wardrobe illustration

Donna Karan’s Seven Easy Pieces

 

Ok, so what is a capsule wardrobe?

Whether it’s 7 pieces from Donna Karan or 40 pieces dictated by a PDF you bought from Etsy, the definition is the same.

Put simply, a capsule wardrobe is a collection of clothing that allows you to create a variety of different outfits. Oftentimes there is an emphasis on a smaller amount of items but there’s no set number.


So, let’s think about this. 


Individual pieces that you combine to make different outfits.

Reusing the same pieces in different ways to make even more outfits.

Each piece you add fits in with the rest and helps you make even more outfits.

Isn’t that…just…a wardrobe?

Whether it’s 25 pieces or 500 pieces, when used correctly, every wardrobe is a capsule wardrobe. 


Unless you’re Barbie, living in Barbie’s Dream House with Barbie’s Dream Closet where each outfit is fixed (usually made by Chanel) and they don’t mix together. And if you are, Hi Barbie! Have a perfect day!

Closet from the movie Barbie

Barbie’s Non-Capsule Closet

 

So what does this mean? 

Sadly, there is no easy fix for getting dressed like all of that capsule wardrobe propaganda has told you.

Also, have you ever really looked at these specifically defined capsule wardrobe formulas?

Capsule wardrobe with images of clothing items in white black and tan

Work Capsule, featuring only 3 colors

 

They don’t work for everything and they definitely don’t work for everyone.

The standard capsule wardrobe formulas don’t take into account formal occasions, swimwear, loungewear, undergarments, body types, color palettes, etc. 

Also, they’re B-O-R-I-N-G!

The capsule wardrobe evangelists know this too. They’ve started making more specific ones, which in my opinion, prove how unhelpful they are! At that point, it’s just one section of a wardrobe or a seasonal shopping list. Or maybe even a packing list for some sort of weird themed vacation?

If you need multiple small capsule wardrobes…isn’t that just one functional wardrobe?

Dark Academia Winter Capsule Wardrobe with clothing illustrations

Dark Academia Winter Capsule….how many people even want this?

 

But here’s the good news. 

You don’t need to limit the number of items you have to have a functional wardrobe that’s easy to use. If you are thoughtful about what you put in your wardrobe (or hire me to do it), it will be easy to get dressed no matter how many pieces you own.

Stick with me here and on Instagram for more ways to do this right.

About the Author

Gab Saper is a New York City personal stylist and founder of Wardrobe Editor. She helps millennial women rebuild wardrobes that reflect who they are now and how they actually live. Her work has been featured in New York Magazine, CNN, Forbes and StyleCaster.

Explore her personal styling services here:

https://www.wardrobeeditor.com/personal-styling-services-menu

Follow her on Instagram:

https://www.instagram.com/wardrobeeditor/

 
Gab Saper
Why A Closet Clean Out Makes You Happier and 6 Ways To Make It Easier

Cleaning out closets is one of my favorite things to do. Not within the confines of my work, but in life. Yes, I realize this is not normal. Most people, including many stylists, dread this process. The mess, the dust, the decisions, the feelings. It can be a lot. 

Sorry to be the one to have to tell you this but no matter how you feel about the process, a closet clean out is the foundation of every successful wardrobe transformation. In order to make meaningful change, you have to start with your existing wardrobe. 

But I don’t wannnnna, why is it important?

As any management consultant or corporate strategist will tell you – in order to solve a problem, you have to have all the facts. What is the current state of the situation? How did we get here? What are the barriers to success? What has been tried before? What would an effective solution look like? A closet clean out answers all of these questions and many more. 

Ok, but how will it make me happier?

The higher percentage of items in your closet that you love – the better you feel about your wardrobe as a whole, the easier it will be to get dressed and the better you will feel in your clothes.

Think about it. 

Let's say you have 100 items in your wardrobe. You love 30 of them but your feelings on the other 70 range meh to eww. When you open those closet doors, you won’t like most of what you see. You’ll feel like you have nothing to wear. You’ll be annoyed every time you get dressed. Getting dressed will be another seemingly impossible task on your to do list. You won’t feel good when you wear the majority of your clothes. That means you won’t feel good the majority of the time.

Now imagine a closet with 50 things that you love. Every time you open those closet doors, you are excited about all the options you have. Getting dressed is easy and fun! Every outfit you wear makes you feel good and every item fits.

An edited, thoughtful wardrobe removes the stressor of “What am I going to wear?” and adds the beauty and ease of feeling amazing in the body you have, every day.

midge maisel saying "so much to think about"
 

Now that we get why, let’s talk about how.

3 Concepts

Fit is (Somewhat) Subjective.

Our bodies, and our feelings about them, are all unique, therefore fit is a complex issue. Determining what fits depends on so many factors – weight fluctuation, body image, lifestyle changes (ex: having a baby, running a marathon, etc). I tailor my approach very specifically to each client based on all of this and more.

That said, a good rule of thumb that will work for many people is to only keep things that are likely to fit you in the next year. This rule only works if you’re completely honest and realistic with yourself about what that means.

Feelings Matter.

A thorough closet clean out will open up conversations not just about the clothes themselves but how they make you feel. That is where the real work happens. Clothes are a vehicle for accessing how we feel about ourselves. Clothes that make you feel like the person you are (or are aspiring to be) make you feel powerful, confident and strong. Clothes that remind you of an old you (whether you miss her or are glad she’s gone) make you feel icky, confused and weird. Through the process of a closet clean out, you’ll figure out what clothes make you feel what feelings, and therefore whether they need to stay or go.

The Easy Part.

Not all of it is that deep, I promise. In every single closet clean out I’ve done, there’s a moment, usually about 2 hours in, where the client picks something up, makes a disgusted face and says something like “I hate this, why is it still here?” Some of the work is just deciding if you like things or not. That part is easy. You know what you like. Go with your gut.

3 Tactics 

Enlist help. Whether you enlist a professional (like me) or a friend, you need someone else to keep you honest – no one can do a closet clean out alone. Your feelings and excuses are what lead to needing a clean out in the first place. Someone who doesn’t remember the fun day they had in that dress or how much that top originally cost will keep you clear-headed and accountable. Even professionals need help – I can only get truly ruthless on my own closet when I have help.

Set a goal. It doesn’t have to be complex or deep. Every item should be kept or discarded as it relates to the goal. It can be as simple as: 

  • Everything in my closet comfortably fits my body.

  • Nothing I own makes me say “meh.”

  • Eliminate all fabrics that don’t physically feel good on my body.

Remove sentimental items. The dress you wore on your first date with your partner, that tube top you wore every weekend in your 20s, your high school club tee shirts – these are important memories. It’s understandable that you want to keep them and you should! (People are always surprised I let them keep this category.) BUT! They shouldn’t be in your closet if you’re not wearing them. Find a new home for them. They should live with your old photos, cards, childhood toys, etc. because they are not clothes anymore, they are sentimental items now.

midge maisel saying "ok...i get it"

I hope this wisdom and guidance makes the process of a closet clean out feel less scary. Now grab a pal and some trash bags and make it happen!

Want a little more? DM me to be added to my email list and I’ll send you my Closet Clean Out Guide as a freebie.

Need serious help? Book me!

Midge Maisel saying "I'm Here"

About the Author

Gab Saper is a New York City personal stylist and founder of Wardrobe Editor. She helps millennial women rebuild wardrobes that reflect who they are now and how they actually live. Her work has been featured in New York Magazine, CNN, Forbes and StyleCaster.

Explore her personal styling services here:

https://www.wardrobeeditor.com/personal-styling-services-menu

Follow her on Instagram:

https://www.instagram.com/wardrobeeditor/

 
Gab Saper
What's the Deal with Effortless Style?

People who create content about fashion (myself included) use the term “Effortless” as if it is a thing to aspire to. 

9 Effortless Ways to Style Your Blazers This Spring - Vogue

16 Best Button-Down Shirts for Women to Master Effortless Dressing - Glamour

The 26 Best Crossbody Bags for Effortless Accessorizing - Harper’s Bazaar

Search Instagram or YouTube and you will find seemingly endless results for outfit ideas and how to’s.

But what’s all the fuss about looking Effortless really about? Is it something we should be aspiring to? And what does it even mean to look Effortless?

Ok, let’s take these one at a time.

What’s all the fuss about looking Effortless really about?

There are many ways to answer this question, but here’s my hot take.

Women live in a world of impossible dualities. (Bet you didn’t see that coming, huh?)

  • Have a body that meets the current beauty standards but don’t admit how much time you spend on your diet, exercise or skincare because it’s vain and embarrassing.

  • Work hard and climb the corporate ladder but don’t be too assertive or confident because everyone will call you a bitch.

  • Don’t age but don’t talk about your plastic surgery or get too much because it’s vain and embarrassing.

  • Project manage everything around you or it will all fall apart but don’t be too controlling.

The concept of Effortless dressing is just another one of these. You should look beautiful and put together at all times but it can’t seem like you tried hard because that’s vain and embarrassing. 

Is it something we should be aspiring to?

I say hell no!

The dirty secret is that a lot of people who look Effortless, actually put a lot of effort into achieving that look. Especially if they’re doing it for social media or any kind of publicity.

My question is – what’s wrong with putting effort into how you look? 

I spend a lot of time thinking about what to wear, how to put things together, what to buy, etc. Ok, yes, it’s my job, but I’ve always been like this. 

I think it’s cool to work hard on something and be proud of it. 

Do you need to tell every person you meet about how many pages of Google Shopping you scrolled to find the exact right black tank with the perfect square, but still a little round, neckline? Probably not.

But when someone compliments you on how perfectly that tank goes with your necklace, instead of saying “Oh yeah, I just threw it on” what if you said something like “It took some digging to find the perfect one but I think it was worth it!” Or, just spitballing here, what about a good, old-fashioned “Thank you!” instead of diminishing yourself and your hard work.

Discounting the work that goes into looking great is just another way to minimize ourselves. Let’s not do that. 

What does it even mean to look Effortless?

I recently spent an afternoon having a leisurely lunch and people watching with Mr. Wardrobe Editor and this topic came up. He asked me to explain how the fashion world uses the word Effortless. While I could not define it, I could very easily point out which passersby were, and were not, exuding Effortless style. After about an hour of this, I still couldn’t land on a definition but I was able to make a (non-exhaustive) list of things that constitute Effortless and those that, in my opinion, do not.

Effortless

  • Head to toe neutrals of varying shades

  • One piece in your outfit that doesn’t go with anything else

  • Baggy and/or distressed denim

  • Slightly worn in shoes and bags

  • Anything slightly oversized, untied, unbuckled or hanging off

  • No visible logos

  • A loose ponytail or low bun with uneven wisps framing the face

  • Baseball hats and beanies

Not Effortless 

  • Outfits comprised of only two or three colors, including the accessories

  • Clothes and accessories that all look brand new

  • Perfect bows – in hair, on clothes, in shoelaces, etc

  • More than one brand logo, bonus points for multiple logos of the same brand

  • Slicked back hair, perfect ponytail or top knot

  • Fedoras, cowboy hats, large brimmed sun hats, berets

Do you see what I’m getting at?

Effortless is a little messy, not perfectly coordinated, worn in but still looking great. It’s “I woke up like this” and “Oh, this ole thing?” energy.

Not Effortless is matching, polished clothing choices that feel intentional. It ranges from “I put some thought into my outfit” to “I meticulously thought about every detail of every item I’m wearing.” The latter usually applies to special event looks and celebrities, though I did once see a woman at a Thierry Mugler exhibit at Brooklyn Museum whose outfit was the epitome of this and she looked AMAZING. I’ll never forget her.

Some visual examples:

Effortless

 
Sienna Miller in a blue dress with a strap hanging off and yellow shoes.

Strap just slightly hanging off, yellow shoes that seem random but somehow also work.

Model in a blue button down with a black jacket draped over one shoulder.

Jacket half off, bra showing, necklaces akimbo, sleeves too long, random yellow socks…and yet, it works.

Model wearing a black leather jacket, red skirt and white tennis shoes with a red swoosh.

Athletic shoes paired with a fancy outfit shouldn’t work, but it does.

Not Effortless

 
Alexa Chung wearing a khaki suit with a black sweater and black sandals.

Khaki, black and gold – everywhere you look.

Naomi Harris wearing a pink dress with gold buttons, black bag with a face on it and black sandals.

Pink, black and gold from head to toe.

Model wearing a white jacket with black fringe, black tights, boots and gloves.

Black and white, perfect ponytail, flawlessly applied makeup.

So how should we think about Effortless dressing?

While it would be nice to be able to roll out of bed, throw on whatever you see and look great – that’s not realistic. Not everything you own goes together, nor should it. A wardrobe should represent the different versions that exist within each of us. 

Some days you may want to be a glamazon, rock a power suit or feel super polished when you’re trying to impress someone you’re intimidated by. Other days, a more thrown-together look with one or two fun details could make you the person other people are intimidated by. (Even though I’m sure you’re perfectly lovely.)

Each of the examples above and all of the fabulous women I see in NYC look great. 

The issue for me is really about the term and not the style itself. As I ranted above, the term Effortless implies that it’s important to look good without trying and that’s something no one can achieve on a regular basis. 

But the styles that encompass what this term has come to represent? 

A loose bun, low slung jeans and a perfectly rumpled yet chic button down? *Chef’s Kiss*

An outfit consisting of khaki, denim and olive green with a lightly worn handbag and unbuckled boots? Yes, please.

The style itself can be a part of anyone’s fashion arsenal.

It’s time to coin a new term for Effortless. Worn In Chic? Messy Modern? Intentional Sloppy?

I’ll keep noodling on this.

While I do that, next time you see someone who embodies Effortless style – ask yourself, is her button down unevenly front tucked just so by accident or did she watch 3 tutorials before she left the house? 

And regardless of which is true, should we care? (I say, no!)

About the Author

Gab Saper is a New York City personal stylist and founder of Wardrobe Editor. She helps millennial women rebuild wardrobes that reflect who they are now and how they actually live. Her work has been featured in New York Magazine, CNN, Forbes and StyleCaster.

Explore her personal styling services here:

https://www.wardrobeeditor.com/personal-styling-services-menu

Follow her on Instagram:

https://www.instagram.com/wardrobeeditor/

 
Gab Saper